A router table is a great addition to any shop and I don’t know what I’d do without mine. It lets you use a wider range of bits and since the bit is stationary, you can make cuts that you just can’t do with a hand-held router.
Even though I’ve upgraded to a router table with a cabinet base, a large top, and a fence with all the options, I still have my first router table and use it as my “travelling” model. It’s not much to look at, but if you don’t have a router table yet, it’s simple to build and will make a big difference in the work you can do with your router. It also makes a great portable table, or for those times when you could use a second table in your shop so you don’t have to change the set-up on your main router table.
Start with an 18″ X 18″ piece of 3/4″-thick plywood (or MDF). Draw diagonal lines on the bottom surface from corner to corner to locate the centre of the table. Remove the base plate from your router, position it over the table’s centre and mark the location of the mounting screw holes. Then drill out the centre hole and drill holes for the mounting screws. You’ll want to countersink the screw holes on the topside so the screw heads fit just below the table surface. (You’ll probably need to buy some longer screws to attach the router to the table.)
The fence consists of a 1×3 face and two 2×2 base pieces. Cut a 2″-wide X 1 1/2″-high notch in the face piece to provide clearance around the bits. Attach the base pieces to the face with glue and screws.
To use the router table, clamp the top to your workbench. You can also clamp the top to a pair of sawhorses, letting the router hang down between the horses. You position the fence and hold it to the table with a clamp at each end.
The push block is wide enough to hold work pieces square to the fence. When it gets chewed up, simply remove the handle and screw it onto a new base.
This author writes about Barn Shed Plans and How to Build Sheds.Visit the Woodworking Shed Plans website and get 12000 woodworking plans.